This snow stuff was not expected - at least, not by yours truly. It's not unknown as these aren't exactly the tropics but I'd have thought a milder winter was in store. I brush off the decks religiously and mind my feet but still it snows. I'm reminded of pictures of the Curlew in South Georgia or the Pyes in Vancouver, visiting Miles and Beryl Smeeton on Tzu Hang. At least they were prepared for the Canadian climate, whereas I am a creature with a more tropic of cancer bloodstream and find the cold initially bracing but eventually wearing. Both those references smack of heroism and true adventure. Curlew is a Falmouth Quay Punt, now in residence at the National Maritime Museum, Cornwall. She was famously the boat and home of Tim and Pauline Carr. They shunned the popular cruising grounds of the Med and Caribbean for the southern wastes in a 30 ft old wooden gaff cutter. Fifty years before them, Peter and Ann Pye sailed their engineless Looe fishing boat, Moonraker (ex Lilly) to the pacific, the Baltic and Brazil. Dr. Pye's books are riveting, not least for his captivating and beautifully written narrative but also for the incredible understatement of their achievements. Ah me. The world was a simpler place in 1952. I imagine they had their pressures; society was in flux after the war and their world, the pre war world, was changed for ever. Pye himself was unhappy with the proposed National Health Service and so I guess he dropped out. Compared with today it looks a peach. Their black and white photographs look strangely familiar right now as I poke my head out and gaze at a scene of extreme contrast. The bright whiteness of the snow covered marina renders any shade to black. Yachty goretex and Musto gear stands out in brilliant modern colours and figures move about in technicolor silhouette like a Lowry in psychedelia. I'm going to don a coat and find someone to partake in a brandy at the marina bar. Later I might do a few bits on board, or more likely tramp into the village for a cosy dinner with a mate - if I can find one to brave it. Wish me luck. It's cold out there.

Early Arctic blasts

Forecast is for rain but we've had snow here. Force 3, NNW but cold, and this is Biscay. I can't imagine it will stick but there's an icing sugar look to the coach roof and every vista is etched in deep contrast. La Foret's wooded backdrop looks bare and dark and the sky is the colour of Blakes primer. Ropes are like bars and every step crunches underfoot. This weather is very early and not encouraging. If I start to get damp below I wonder if I'll stay the winter. There's a fine line between ventilation and condensation on an old boat. Early days yet. It'll warm up, just you wait and see...